Thursday, November 27, 2008

Oh, and Happy Thanksgiving...

Yes. Well. Today is Thanksgiving. I hope you all have a great one. I totally forgot about it, since we had ours last week... and there were other things on the mind today. Crazy...

Last Day of Classes (último día de clases)

Speech

I was chosen, by a chorus of gringo voices, to write a speech for the ceremonia de despedida (dismissal ceremony) at the university. I was then convinced by my host parents that if I had someone else read it, it wouldn't be the same. So yesterday, I gave a speech in Spanish. A real one, in front of people: the powers that be in the university, our professors, some of our compañeros, and the rest of the gringos. It went pretty well, and here it is (including english translation).

Fui elegido por los gringos a escribir un discurso para la ceremonia de despedida en la universidad. Luego, mis padres me dijeron que, si un otro lo diera, no sería lo mismo. Entonces, ayer di un discurso en español. Un discurso real, delante de gente: los que mandan en la universidad, nuestros profesores, algunos de nuestros compañeros, y los demás de los gringos. Fue más o menos bien, y la letra sigue (incluyendo la traducción de español).


Gracias a todos--
Es un gusto estar acá esta tarde con ustedes, y ha sido un gusto estar en Chile estos tres meses.
No sabíamos qué esperar antes de venir a Chile. Solo sabíamos lo que aprendimos en nuestro clase de orientación en los Estados Unidos: que Chile es muy hermoso con muchas vistas y paisajes distintos, que habría muchos modismos, que estudiaríamos español y la cultura de Chile mientras viajáramos por el país, y que tendríamos el tiempo de nuestras vidas. También conocimos sobre las empanadas y el deciocho de septiembre, pero nada podía describir la experiencia que hemos tenido.
Cuando nosotros llegamos en septiembre, después de que nos bajamos del avión, la mayoría de nosotros no pudimos entender lo que la gente en el aeropuerto nos decía, ni hablar más que las frases más simples con ellos en español, como "lo siento, no entiendo," o "¿qué?"
Pero, durante estos meses, hemos aprendido mucho: mucho del idioma, del país y la cultura, y de nosotros mismos. Ahora, podemos funcionar más o menos independientes en una ciudad nueva, en un país nuevo, y con un idioma distinto. Podemos tomar las micros y colectivos, comprar cosas que necesitamos en un supermercado, en el mall, o en el mercado al aire libre, disfrutar la vida nocturna, y tomar autobuses para otras partes del país o para otros países. De hecho, muchos de nosotros vamos a viajar solos o en grupos pequeños a muchos lugares después de que termine el programa. Vamos a la Isla del Pascua, a Machu Picchu en Perú, al sur de Chile a lugares como Chiloé, Torres del Paine, y Tierra del Fuego, y a Atacama en el norte, entre otros. En todo caso, no importa adonde vayamos, podemos ir con más confianza en nosotros mismos que antes del programa.
Ya hemos viajado a las Termas de Chillán, Valparaíso, Viña del Mar, Isla Negra, Valdivia, Puerto Varas, y Puerto Montt. Algunos han ido a Argentina y otras ciudades en Chile. Hace unos meses atrás, habría resultado imposible de pensar que haríamos todo ésto.
También, más que aprender y viajar, hemos hecho amigos mientras hemos estado acá, entre nosotros, entre nuestros compañeros y tutores de la universidad, entre nuestras familias, quienes nos han aceptado como hijos y hermanos, y con otra gente a quien hemos conocido.
Es claro que ha sido una experiencia muy buena e inolvidable. Nos gustaría darles muchas gracias por la oportunidad de estudiar y vivir un tiempo con ustedes.
Muchas gracias.


Thank you to all of you--
It is a pleasure to be here this afternoon with you, and it has been a pleasure to be in Chile these three months.
We didn't know what to expect before coming to Chile. We only knew what we learned in our orientation class in the United States: that Chile is very beautiful with many different views and landscapes, that there would be a lot of idioms, that we would study Spanish and Chilean culture while traveling through the country, and that we would have the time of our lives. We also learned about empanadas (a typical and delicious Chilean dish) and the 18th of September (celebration of Chilean independence), but nothing could describe the experience we have had.
When we arrived in September, after getting off the plane, the majority of us couldn't understand what the people in the airport were saying, or speak more than the most simple phrases with them in Spanish, like "I'm sorry, I don't understand" or "What?"
But during these months, we have learned a lot: a lot about the language, the country and culture of Chile, and about ourselves. Now we can function more or less independently in a new city, in a new country, and with a different language. We can take the micros and colectivos (public transportation), buy things we need in a supermarket, the mall, or the open air market, enjoy the night life, and take buses to other parts of the country, or to other countries. In fact, many of us are going to travel alone or in small groups to many different places after the program ends. We are going to Easter Island, Machu Picchu in Peru, to the south of Chile to places like Chiloé, Torres del Paine, and Tierra del Fuego, and to the Atacama desert in the north, among others. In any case, no matter where we go, we can go with more confidence in ourselves than before the program.
We have already gone to the Termas de Chillán, Valparaíso, Viña del Mar, Isla Negra, Valdivia, Puerto Varas, and Puerto Montt. Some of us have gone to Argentina and other cities in Chile. A few months ago, it would have been imposible to think that we would do all this.
Also, more than learn and travel, we have made friends while we have been here, between each other, with our fellow students and tutors in the university, with our families, who have accepted us as sons and daughters, brothers and sisters, and with other people we have met.
It is clear that it has been an amazing and unforgettable experience. We would like to thank you all for the opportunity to study and live with you for a while.
Thank you very much.


And now, classes are done, the last tests have been taken, and many people are already on their way to the various places mentioned in the speech. And I only have a little over a week before I head back. I'm excited... and a little sad.

Y ahora, clases han terminado, las últimas pruebas han estado dado, y muchos de los gringos ya están viajando para los lugares mencionados en el discurso. Y tengo un poco más que una semana hasta volver a los Estados Unidos. Estoy emocionado... y un poco triste.

Rodeo Chileno, Chilean Rodeo

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A day at the Rodeo... (Un día en el rodeo...)

Dust flew into the shimmering summer air at the passing of the caballeros, riding abreast with a steer herded between them, spraying dirt clods into the stand. The crowd watched with gathering interest as the beast continued to make the circuit, completely controlled by the two riders, now one behind the other riding almost sideways, his horses breast keeping the steer at the wall, and not allowing it to run free through the middle of the ring. Round and round, they went in the football shaped part of the corral. Three times, they passed before the puerteros opened the gates on either side of the starting pen, and the medialuna was open. The steer, sensing an opportunity to flee his tormentors, burst forward when he saw the opening before him. The caballeros too picked up speed, continuing to keep the animal close to the wall. The announcer shouted, "Un punto bueno!" Around the halfmoon they went, shouting, urging the bull on. The crowd added their own shouts and encouragements, "Ay, yai, yai, yah, yah... bueno caballero!" The steer neared the padded portion of the wall, the crowd tensed, the riders set their jaws and focused all their attention on the animal. Even the live musicians paused mid-song, the harp falling silent and the guitar resting quietly in the woman's lap. Then, the bull reached the scoring area, the rider behind pulled in the reigns, showering the crowd with flying dirt. The rider to the side, the horse who had been galloping sideways next to the steer the whole way, surged forward, and the beasts bellowed as the steer crashed against the wall. The horse had pinned the animal, bringing it to a halt against the padded wall, by hitting the steer just in front of the hind legs, and then in dizzying footwork, while the steer remained still, easing in front of it to keep it from continuing forward. Now the riders had switched positions, the one who had trailed the steer now came in on the side, and the rider who had just pinned the animal, now turned it around to flee the other direction around the halfmoon to the padded wall on the other side. "Cuatro puntos buenos!" shouted the announcer, and the crowd whistled, shouted, clapped their hands and stomped their feet, as the caballeros and steer continued with the Chilean rodeo.

This is the national sport of Chile, and a term abroad here would be incomplete with out experiencing it at least once. This last weekend I went with my sister and gringo friend, Corey. Chilean rodeo is different than that of the US. It consists of only one event, which takes place in a large oval corral. The object is to get the steer running around the halfmoon part and run it into the wall at a certain point, stopping its progress and turning it around to race the other way around the edge to the same fate on the other side, and finally a return and yet another encounter with the wall. Then the steer is herded back around the halfmoon at a slower pace and out of the ring. The huasos (cowboys, country-folk) earn points (puntos) for how they stop the steer. The farther back on the body, the more points, because it is more difficult. They can earn 1-4 points for a clean hit and stop. If they do something wrong (I didn't understand what exactly), they get zero points. If the steer is able to continue forward after the hit on the wall or they loose control of it, they are deducted points.

It was interesting to see and anyone with eyes can tell it is ridiculously hard to make a horse run sideways next to a bull and then push the bull into the wall with all its strength. Still, it didn't set entirely well with me, just as the rodeo in the United States doesn't quite sit well with me. After watching numerous bulls fall to their knees and not move until prodded into action after being run into the wall, after seeing a crazed steer jump over the wall of the corral, breaking the top boards and falling to the other side, after watching a steer with rolling white eyes and foam dripping from its mouth jump into the door to the first football shaped part of the corral and break the locking piece... it just seems a bit cruel. It's not my place to pass judgment though, and it is clear that the steers are treated with some manner of respect and are looked after, well-fed, etc.

Anyway, that is the rodeo. See the pictures. Buy the ticket. Take the ride.

Sunday, November 23, 2008

Reflexion, un poco atrasada (Reflection, a bit late)

Note: This was written on Friday the 21st of November. Also, because I can write much improved spanish and am writing with plenty free time, I will include the translation.


Cold gray morning. Thick fog hangs over the rooftops outside the window and swirls around the legs of a neighbor walking out to the road to catch the micro. It is a morning that reminds me of the Oregon that I am quite far from at the moment. A perfect Oregon fall day dawning, and it's on the verge of summer a full continent away here in Chillan. After weeks of 80 degree and above weather, the respite is welcome. A little reminder of what will be reality in little over two weeks (now less). Rain, cold, and ice. I will be glad to see it, feel it, experience it again. Almost two summers in a row is, believe it or not, a bit too much. Seasonal affective disorder or no, people are used to the tilt and turn of the earth.

Only one four-day week of classes remaining. Then a week to relax, spend time with my host family, celebrate year number 22, say good-byes. Then I will be on a plane, leaving summer and running headlong into winter and Christmas and New Year and glorious, dreary, rain-spewing, cold Oregon. I miss the rain. I will be getting all I can handle soon enough.

These last two weeks will pass quickly. Too quickly. Without time to savor it. I came, I saw, Chile conquered. I will miss the micro in the morning, being thrown into the seat as the driver pulls away at top speed, climbing over hordes of middle-schoolers to reach the exit in time for my stop, the stares and silent chuckles as we gringos attempt spanish conversation amidst crowds of chileans. I will miss the cramped campus and the smile of the chilean tutores when they see gringos approaching. I will miss the mercado, bursting with color and sound and sweet smells mixed with a crush of people. I will miss walking down the street, watching birds flutter from branch to branch in front of a grand Andean backdrop. I will miss snow capped mountains, always visible in the distance. I will miss the faces of the friends I have made and will hopefully see again. I will miss the green Hyundai racing down the street and pulling into the driveway. I will miss my host family and the conversations and the food and the dog and the parties and the red tea.

It has been an amazing three months. Skiing in the Andes, waterfalls, cities, beaches, Argentina (pictures coming as soon as this computer decides to function properly), Santiago, lakes, volcano, brewery, classes, spanish, whole days spent on grassy river bank disclosing secret poetry for the first time, fiestas, holidays, asados, becoming familiar with streets and houses and neighborhoods and a whole new culture and way of life, watching the moon grow, fill, empty, and fill again. Everything.

Yesterday was our celebration of el dia de accion de gracias (aka Thanksgiving), a week early, in a country that doesn't celebrate Thanksgiving. Turkeys were cooked, a ham was glazed, potatoes stuffed, green beans casaroled (english majors have the luxury of creating new and necessary words), fruit chopped and combined, salad tossed, and pie baked--all served with wine, poolside at our professors house, accompanied by music and with squawking birds, setting sun, and finally bright, strange stars overhead. A picturesque evening.

Next: the weekend, three tests, a final ceremony from the university, another weekend, a week of goodbyes, celebrations, and packing, and then the plane.

Conflicting feelings, memories, and desires on this nervous night hammering keyboard keys in front of a computer screen. I want to stay, I can't wait to go home, I need more time for spanish, I've learned so much, money is tight, I miss home, I will miss Chile...

The only answer is a constant pendulum swing back and forth, Oregon to Chile, Chile to Oregon. Repeat. And of course, money is required. I better get to work becoming famous. Or alchemy. Or maybe someday the Pan American highway will bridge the Colombian gap and hitchhiking, shedding weird poetry and short-stories and the odd article in local papers for money, will become a possibility...

Somehow. It will be necessary to return. Of this I am sure. The rest is but detail. And that is all for now. I will see many of you very soon.

~~~~~~~~~

Anotación: Éste fue escrito viernes, el 21 de noviembre. También, porque puedo escribir mejor en español ahora, y estoy escribiendo con bastante tiempo, incluiré la traducción.

Una mañana fría y gris. Densa niebla flota arriba de los techos afuera de la ventana y se arremolina alrededor de las piernas del vecino, caminando para la calle para tomar el micro. Es una mañana que me recuerda de Oregon, el de que estoy muy lejos en este momento. Un día perfecto de Oregon en otoño amanece, pero es casi verano en un otro continente distinto, acá en Chillán. Después de unas semanas con tiempo de más o menos 80 grados Fahrenheit (27 grados centígrados), un respiro es agradecido. Un recuerdo de lo que será real en un poco más que dos semanas (ahora menos). Lluvia, frío, y hielo. Me alegrará verlos, sentirlos, experimentarlos de nuevo. Casi dos veranos seguidos son, aunque no te lo creas, un poco demasiados. Trastorno afectivo estacional o no, la gente suele sentir la inclinación y la vuelta de la Tierra.

Solo una semana de cuatro días de clases queda. Después, una semana para relajarme, pasar tiempo con la familia, celebrar el año número veintidós, decir adiós. Luego, estaré en el avión, saliendo verano para invierno, Navidad (también se puede decir Pascua en Chile), Año Nuevo, y maravilloso, deprimente, frío Oregon, lleno de lluvia. Echo de menos la lluvia. Voy a tener bastante pronto.

Estas últimas semanas pasarán rápidamente. Demasiado rápidamente. Sin tiempo para disfrutarlas. Vine, vi, y Chile me conquistó. Echaré de menos el micro en la mañana, cuando me tira en asiento mientras el conductor se aleja a toda velocidad, cuando me trepo a la horda de los estudiantes para bajarme en el parada, las miradas y risitas silenciosas cuando nosotros gringos tratamos de conversar en español en medio de la multitud de chilenos. Me hará falta el pequeño campus de la universidad y las sonrisas de los tutores chilenos cuando ven a gringos acercándose. Extrañaré el mercado, lleno de color y sonidos y olores ricos combinado con mucha gente. Extrañaré caminar por la calle, mirando aves dan saltitos entre las ramas delante de la vista andina. Extrañaré las cumbres nevadas de las montañas siempre evidente a lo lejos. Echaré de menos las caras de mis amigos, las que espero ver en el futuro. Voy a echar de menos el Hyundai verde corriendo por la calle y entrando el camino de entrada. Voy a echar de menos mi familia, las conversaciones, la comida, el perro, las fiestas (carretes), y el té rojo.

Han sido increíbles, estos tres meses. Esquiando en la Cordillera de los Andes, saltos de agua, ciudades, playas, Argentina (fotos vienen pronto), Santiago, lagos, volcanes, cervezería, clases, español, días completos pasados en la orilla cubierto de hierba compartiendo por primera vez poesía escondida, fiestas, feriados, asados, conociendo las calles, casas, barrios, y una nueva cultura y estilo de vida, mirando la luna llenar, vaciar, y llenar de nuevo. Todo.

Ayer fue nuestro celebración del Día de Acción de Gracias, una semana antes de que celebren en Oregon, en un país que no lo celebra. Pavos fueron cocinado, un jamón fue glaseado, papas rellenadas, porotos verdes cazuelados (estudiantes de literatura pueden hacer palabras nuevas y necesarias), fruta picada y mezclada, ensalada mezclada, y pastel horneado--todo servido con vino, al lado de la piscina en la casa de nuestra profesora, acompañado por música y con pájaros graznando, sol menguando, y por fin, brillantes estrellas extraños encima de la cabeza. Una noche pintoresca.

Ahora: el fin de semana, tres pruebas, una ceremonia final de la universidad, un fin de semana más, una semana de adioses, celebraciones, y haciendo las maletas, y luego el avión.

Sentimientos, recuerdos, y deseos contradictorios en esta noche nerviosa, tipeando frente a la pantalla de la computadora. Quiero quedarme, me muero de ganas de volver, necesito más tiempo para aprender español, ya he aprendido mucho, dinero está escaso, echo de menos hogar, voy a echar de menos Chile...

La única respuesta es una oscilación constante del péndulo, de ida y vuleta, Chile a Oregon, Oregon a Chile. Y por supuesto dinero es necesario. Tengo que empezar a conseguir fama. O alquimia. O tal vez, algún día, la Carretera Panamericana será completado y no será el tramo entre Pánama y Colombia, y podré hacer dedo, escribiendo poesía extraña, cuentos, algún que otro artículo en diarios locales por dinero...

De alguna manera. Será necesario que yo vuelva. Estoy segura de ésto. El resto es detalle. Esto es todo. Voy a ver muchos de ustedes muy pronto.

Valdivia, Puerto Varas, Puerto Montt

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Bariloche, Argentina

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